Secured vs unsecured debt -Toronto-Ontario

When you and your credit counsellor discussing whether bankruptcy, is the right solution to your financial problems, you’ll need to know the difference between secured and unsecured debts.

Your repayment of a secured debt is essentially guaranteed by the asset for which you took the loan. A home mortgage is a very common type of secured loan — the loan to pay for the home is secured by the value of the home itself. If you fail to meet the terms of your repayment agreement, the lender can terminate the agreement, and seize and sell the home. For the duration of the mortgage they have a lien on your property that restricts what you can do with it. A car loan is another example. The lender maintains a lien on the vehicle until the debt is repaid.

By contrast, unsecured loans are essentially granted on the strength of your work history and credit score, and “guaranteed” by no more than your signature and good reputation. A credit card is the common example of an unsecured loan. The credit card company has no claim on the items for which you used your credit card to pay. Most

of your bills, including taxes and medical bills, are unsecured debts. You will usually pay a higher interest rate on unsecured debt, because the lender is taking a greater risk than if it were secured debt.

It’s only unsecured debt that is discharged in bankruptcy. If you have secured loans for an asset and wish to keep the asset, you’ll have to continue to make your agreed-upon payments. Secured debts are treated differently in a consumer proposal, too. It can get a little complex, so you should definitely talk over all of your debts with your bankruptcy trustee or credit counsellor.

(And remember that if you charge a significant amount just prior to declaring bankruptcy, your credit card lender will likely consider that fraud, and demand payment, although that still doesn’t make it a secured debt, even if you bought something seizable, like furniture.)

If your debts have become unmanageable, call a qualified credit counsellor today.

How debt affects your relationship

Was Shakespeare right when he said, “Neither a borrower nor a lender be?” It often depends on the nature of the relationship. Borrowing and lending makes the world go round when it comes to national economies, corporations, or small business, but it’s a very different story when it comes to your spouse.

Debt can have a devastating effect on a relationship. It’s often cited as the No. 1 reason couples argue, and among the most common causes of divorce.

An American university study last year reported that couples who argue about money early in their relationships are at greater risk of divorce, whatever their income, debt or net worth. The 2012 study, “Examining the Relationship Between Financial Issues and Divorce,” also said that arguments about money were longer and more acrimonious than arguments about other topics. Another university in 2009 found that couples who disagreed about finances once a week were more than 30% more likely to divorce than couples who reported disagreeing about finances less often.

The best way not to join their ranks is to make good choices from the beginning. When you’re contemplating a major relationship commitment, talk to your partner about money.

Talk about your attitudes, your culture, what you think money is and its role in society. Talk about your financial priorities. If one of you wants to save for retirement and the other wants a speed boat, you’ll need all the open communication you can get. Disagreeing doesn’t mean your relationship is doomed, but it will take continued non-judgmental communication and regularly revisiting the issue to keep from developing resentments and creation

financial tensions down the road. Talk specifically about the debts you bring to the relationship, and be absolutely honest.

If you’re in a relationship with someone whose debts far outstrip yours, or who seems to constantly be accruing more, consider waiting before making a long-term commitment. Give him or her the chance to straighten out their financial difficulties, or at least take the right steps towards doing so, before you walk down the aisle.

If you’re already married and you or your spouse is in financial trouble, it doesn’t necessarily mean both partners are in the same boat. A debt that is yours alone (for which they did not co-sign) does not affect your spouse’s credit, and a bankruptcy affects only the insolvent spouse. Joint debts can be a different story, and can even your ex-spouse’s (or one from whom you are legally separated) behaviour can affect you financially.

If you’ve got concerns about your financial future, or that of your prospective spouse, talk to a qualified Credit Counselor today.

Don’t fall into the rent-to-own furniture trap

It’s amazing what we can convince ourselves we “need.” When in truth we need to look after our families, sleep indoors, eat nutritious meals and drink clean water, we convince ourselves we need a cell phone, a gym membership — and new furniture. We work hard, and certainly in theory we do deserve to have the things we want, not just the things we need. When the springs start to poke through the couch cushions and the mattress has more lumps than grandma’s gravy, we convince ourselves we need new furniture, even when we can’t afford it. At least furniture, unlike a vacation, is around for a while, but except for your house and your car, you should start working towards habits that let you pay cash for everything else. If you can’t quite bring yourself to do that, at least be very careful not to fall into the rent-to-own furniture trap. The allure of rent-to-own retailers is that you can make small monthly payments — smaller than you would pay if you financed the furniture through your bank. The downside is that payment often stretches over so long a length of time and at such a high interest rate, by the time you actually own the furniture you could have paid off a bank loan twice. In addition to interest rates that are substantially higher than the going bank rate, there is always a lot of fine print. If you decide to return the item early, you’re out whatever you’ve already paid on it. Of course, if you miss a payment, the company will repossess it, and quick. They don’t report timely payments to credit bureaus, but they don’t report missed payments either, because technically it’s not a loan. Rent-to-own prices are much higher than other retailers, often shockingly so. We did a quick check on one rent-to-own website and found a 32” Toshiba LED TV for $10 x 156 months, or $1,560. We found the same TV at an electronics retailer for $275. A certain Acer laptop was $549.99 at the electronics store; it was $1,976 ($19/week for 104 weeks) on the rent-to-own site. If that’s not enough, rent-to-own retailers are often under fire for complaints to the Better Business Bureau and consumer advocate groups. The bottom line is that these companies exist to serve

customers with poor or no credit who can’t get traditional financing. With today’s rampaging consumer debts, rent-to-own furniture, electronics and appliances retailers are more popular than ever, but they’re seldom a good idea.

How to stop living paycheck to paycheck-Toronto-Ontario

If you’ve ever been to one of those payroll loans shops and taken an advance on your salary, you might be in financial trouble.  If you barely make it — or can’t even quite make it — to your next pay day, you’re living in a vicious financial loop where you can never get ahead. You’re likely paying exorbitant interest because you can’t make more than minimum payments on your debts; you may never build up equity in your home. Even the smallest of emergency situations, like an unexpected car repair or a sick pet, can be a trial. Big, life-altering situations like serious illness or divorce can be devastating. A resort vacation or a new car? Forget it.

It’s a hard habit to break, but it can be done. The first thing it will take is the acknowledgement that you didn’t get here by magic — the decisions you’ve made in the past and the way you’ve chosen to handle your money are why you’re living paycheck to paycheck. Once you get real about what got you here, it’s time to get real about your spending. Check out our last post for some help making a spending plan.

Be prepared to cut. Do whatever it takes for as long as it takes — getting off the paycheck-to-paycheck merry-go-round will be worth it. Start with little things, like turning off lights when you’re not in the room and taking your lunch two or three days a week. Move on to carpooling and ditching your cable television. Then, take on the big stuff, like selling your motorcycle or getting by with one car between you. Then, start talking to your family about the really, really big stuff, like whether you should be selling your house, using the equity to pay off your debts, and renting an apartment for a couple of years.

Start putting away a small amount for savings, even if it’s just $25 or $50 a check. Have it taken directly from your bank account on pay day and put into a tax-free savings account (TFSA), where it will require a special request and 24 hours’ notice to get at it. It makes it hard to buy on impulse, and over time, you’ll be surprised how much small amounts add up.

Pay your bills as soon as they’re due, and pay more than minimum on credit debts, even if it’s just $5 or $10 more. It will make a big difference in how long it will take to pay them off, and how much your borrowing will cost you. Get in the habit of keeping just one credit card with you, with a small limit, strictly for emergencies, and leave the rest at home.

Also get in the habit of tracking your spending, maybe forever. Keep a little journal and write down every penny you spend for the first few weeks, and then when you’ve developed better habits, start looking at your spending

perhaps once a week. If your expenses start creeping up again, act to reduce them. Consider turning a hobby into a part-time venture, or volunteering for overtime at work to increase your income.

Take responsibility and act now. Enlist the help of a qualified Credit Counsellor to help you stop living paycheck to paycheck.

How to Make a Budget and Stick to It

Money is a great tool. Properly managed, it can enhance your quality life, give your children a great start, and help your friends, family and favorite charities do good in the world. Mismanaged, it can become a source of stress and conflict, harassing phone calls from lenders and garnisheed wages.

One of the keys to getting a handle on your finances is to prepare a manageable budget, and use it to help keep you from living beyond your means. It may help to think of your budget as a spending plan instead — it shouldn’t be about deprivation. A good budget flexes with changes in your circumstances, and lets you predict how much you’ll need each week, month and year to meet your obligations and build a financially viable future.

It doesn’t matter whether you use a fancy spreadsheet or a piece of paper, just get started. First, write down your income, and remember every source, including interest and dividends, government assistance, even birthday money from Mom and Dad.

Then make a list of all your fixed and variable expenses on a monthly basis. Fixed expenses are those that don’t vary, such as mortgage payments, child support and car insurance.

When you’re writing down variable expenses (those that fluctuate from week to week or month to month) don’t forget the small stuff, like trips to the drive-through and bank charges, and the stuff you’d really rather ignore — like $158 a month in interest charges on your line of credit!

If don’t know what you spend, keep track for a couple of weeks. Finding out what you actually spend on groceries, clothes, visits to the salon and meals out can be a real eye-opener.

Also include in your plans at least some small savings, aiming for at least 5% of your income. If you can’t save that much now, put in some tiny amount anyone can scrape up, like $25/month

Remember that all your annual expenses need to be accounted for in your monthly budget. If you blow $500 on gifts at Christmas, put down $50 in your monthly budget. Remember debt repayment too, and always aim for more than minimum payments.

Once you have a clear picture of your spending and your income, it’s a simple game of pluses and minuses. If you’re spending more than you make, you have two options: make more or spend less. Preferably both. Just don’t live in denial. Be prepared to cut back on variable expenses and give up some luxuries. Whatever it takes, your budget needs to balance. Getting further and further into debt each month is no longer an option. If you have to give up eating out, colour your hair yourself, or live without a vacation this year, it’s a small price to pay for lasting solvency. Most importantly, when there isn’t money to spend, stop spending.

To stay on track, stop looking at your budget as a static tool. It’s like being on a diet: if you tell yourself you can never have ice cream again, you’ll eventually lose your resolve and eat seven pounds of ice cream in a day. If you are desperate to have a weekend away, adjust your spending for the few weeks prior; brown-bag your lunch, take the bus, do whatever you have to pay cash for your getaway. If you overspend one week, cut back the next.

Finally, get real with yourself. Distinguish needs from wants. You need food and shelter. You want a cell phone, magazine subscriptions and satellite television.

Once you get the hang of it, being in control of your finances offers a much greater feeling of accomplishment than stopping at the drive-through ever could.

What’s the best way to save with tax-free interest? TFSA and RRSP

 

As we get closer to tax time, many start to think about the tax breaks offered by a registered plan but many may be confused about what they are looking for, what with all the acronyms.
The two most notable are TFSA and RRSP. They aren’t the same, nor do they serve the same purpose.
The Tax-Free Savings Account (TFSA) is a flexible, registered, general-purpose savings account that earns tax-free interest. Canadians can contribute up to $5,500 annually into a TFSA and can withdraw the money in the account at any time. The money contributed to the TFSA is not tax exempt, though, as it is with an RRSP. The benefit of a TFSA is that you can save up for anything and collect interest that you can put toward whatever you decide to spend it on.
An RRSP is a retirement savings plan into which you or your spouse or common-law partner contributes to a set limit, dependent on your income for that year. RRSP contributions can be used to reduce the income tax you pay and the interest accrued is also sheltered from tax. You do, however, pay tax on the withdrawal at the time of withdrawal. The RRSP is a great retirement savings tool because you can contribute to it in your high-income earning years to reduce your tax owing, and then use the money as income in the future when your earnings may put you in a lower tax bracket.
RRSPs help you meet long-term financial objectives such as comfortably living in pension years, while TFSAs allow you to save for short to long-term goals.
Both allow you to top up what you may have missed putting away in previous years, but you have to be careful with a TFSA that you don’t over-contribute per year, which would incur fees. Say you contribute $5,500 on January 1 and take all of that money out by the time you receive your tax refund. You cannot simply put the refund back into your TFSA because you would overstep your contribution limit. You have to wait until the following January to add it along with the $5,500 for that new year (so, you could add $11,000 on January 15, for example).
With an RRSP, the government tells you what you can contribute for the following year based on what you earned that year. It also factors in what unused contributions have carried over. Say your allowed contribution is $5,500; you put $3,000 into your RRSP and on your tax assessment and the government tells you that you can contribute $6,000 next year PLUS the $2,500 carried over from the previous year for a total of $8,500. You can put your tax refund toward the following year’s contribution. Say that’s $1,000, which means you can contribute another $7,500 until the deadline for the next year’s contribution. Withdrawals from an RRSP are taxable, so you cannot simply replace the money you take out (with a few exceptions, such as using it as a down-payment on a house) without it going against your allowance for the tax year.
One last important thing: on death, the RRSP is counted as income on the deceased’s final income tax return and added to the estate. The other alternative is to roll it over into the RRSP of a spouse, common-law partner or dependent, where the transfer is tax free and continues to grow tax free until such time as the new owner cashes it in or forwards it along to dependents on passing away.
On death, the amount in the TFSA of the deceased is generally passed along to the spouse or common-law partner.

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